Guns and tourists: Aboard the unlikely India-Pakistan 'friendship bus'

INTO THE SUNSET

After lunch in another deserted and heavily guarded highway restaurant, the bus passes through Wagah-Attari, one of the few active border crossings between India and Pakistan. It is best known for an elaborate dusk ceremony where high-kicking guards from both countries perform a choreographed routine at a purpose-built stadium that straddles the border.

Most days, just 100 people cross in either direction, Indian and Pakistani border officials said. Both times Reuters crossed the border, the process took close to three hours, and the terminal was deserted with no other travellers in sight apart from those on the bus.

Mir, from Kashmir, is held by Indian border officials for 40 minutes for questioning.

"Kashmiris are dangerous," he laughed, as he returned to the bus.

Shortly before the dusk ceremony begins, the bus drives across the border through the stadium, where hundreds of spectators from both countries roar their approval.

Passengers then pass through near-identical Pakistani immigration checks.

On board, spirits are high as the bus begins its last lap to the centre of Lahore, about 20 km (12 miles) away.

"We have been visiting for the last 40 years and this time there were no problems for me as a normal visitor," Mohammed said, of his visit to Delhi when tensions were at their peak. "I didn't feel any anger against Pakistanis. Nothing."